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People Tree founder launches Indilisi — a slow-fashion label for a “just transition”

By ChatGPT. Reporting and synthesis from brand releases, interviews and early press coverage.

Safia Minney — the campaigner, author and entrepreneur who helped put ethical fashion on the map with People Tree in the 1990s — has launched a new slow-fashion label called Indilisi. Positioning itself as a craft-led, small-batch alternative to runaway fast fashion, Indilisi arrives as both a stylistic offering (timeless organic wardrobe staples) and a policy statement: the brand explicitly frames itself as part of a “just transition” for the global textile and fashion industry, prioritising makers, traceable organic fibres and long-term trade partnerships. The launch marks not simply a new collection but an argument about what fashion could be — and how a market pivoted towards durability, fairness and repair could look in practice. (Indilisi)

From People Tree to Indilisi: a lineage of ethics and craft

Safia Minney is a familiar name in sustainable fashion circles. In 1991 she co-founded Global Village and later launched People Tree — one of the first fashion labels to win World Fair Trade Organisation accreditation and to champion organic, traceable supply chains at scale. Through books, campaigning and trade advocacy, Minney became a visible voice arguing that fashion needn’t sacrifice people or the planet in the name of growth. Indilisi is, in part, a continuation of that life’s work: it draws on decades of Fair Trade relationships and an organising idea that garments should be built to last, with artisans at the centre of design and production. (Wikipedia)

People Tree’s story is important context. The brand proved that fair wages, capacity building and environmental practice could be embedded into clothing — but it also ran into the commercial pressures that have afflicted many ethical pioneers. More recently, People Tree faced financial difficulties (its UK business went into liquidation in 2023) that highlighted how difficult profit-with-purpose can be when the wider market undervalues ethical production. Indilisi’s arrival feels therefore both familiar and purposeful: rather than try to be a high-growth global retailer, Indilisi emphasizes small runs, artisan partnerships and transparency as its commercial differentiators. (Wikipedia)

What Indilisi sells — product, provenance and production

Indilisi launched with a considered capsule of womenswear and menswear, handcrafted jewellery and small accessories. On the brand website and early press materials, Minney and the team emphasise organic cottons, handloom and handwoven textiles, and artisan workshops in Bangladesh and Kenya as the production homes for the first pieces. Pieces are deliberately simple — shirts, relaxed trousers, staple jackets and pieces described as “timeless” rather than seasonal — and designed to be worn for years rather than a single cycle. The product language is unhurried: hand-made, single-fibre garments and repairable tailoring are front and centre. (Indilisi)

Crucially, Indilisi foregrounds its maker networks. The brand reports collaboration with Fair Trade groups and craft workshops, and Minney has credited long-standing producer relationships for enabling immediate small-batch production without compromising standards. The label’s materials pages and “our makers” content describe how sourcing decisions — accredited tanneries, organic certification and artisan co-operatives — are designed to deliver social as well as environmental benefits. This transparency aims to reduce the familiar opacity that allows cheap fashion to appear cheaper than it truly is. (Indilisi)

The launch team and supporting voices

Indilisi is a Safia Minney project but it’s not a solo endeavour. Early supporting voices named in press materials and the brand press release include industry figures and changemakers who have for years advocated for fairer fashion policy and practice. The launch materials list collaborators and advisors who help connect the brand to established fair-trade producer groups and to campaign networks such as Fashion Declares. Those alliances give Indilisi immediate legitimacy among buyers and media who follow the sustainable fashion beat, and they make clear the brand’s intent: this is as much advocacy as it is commerce. (pressloft.com)

Messaging: “post-growth” fashion and a just transition

Indilisi’s public narrative is strong on values. The press release and Safia’s own writings for the brand describe Indilisi as part of a “post-growth fashion collective” that puts people and planet first. That language — “just transition”, “post-growth” — is deliberate. It signals an explicit political project: Indilisi rejects the logic of perpetual scale expansion and instead models a way of doing business that prioritises living incomes, regenerative farming for fibres and capacity building within maker communities. Those are not mere marketing phrases in this context; they are policy aims that require long-term investment and patient trade relationships. (pressloft.com)

Campaign and tone: intimate, documentary, craft-led

Early imagery around Indilisi leans into documentary and craft aesthetics rather than high-gloss fashion advertising. Photographs show close-up details of weaving and hand-sewn seams, portraits of artisans at work, and simple outfit shots that emphasize texture over trend. This is consistent with the brand’s effort to tell makers’ stories alongside product shots — an increasingly common tactic among ethical brands but one that matters here because the brand’s differentiation is social as much as stylistic. Industry coverage has picked up this messaging, describing Indilisi as a “return to roots” for Minney and an antidote to disposable collections. (The Independent)

Early reception: press, peers and the sustainability community

The launch has been covered by mainstream and specialist outlets. The Independent framed Indilisi as “an attempt to meet demand for more affordable craft-led alternatives” and flagged the label as a notable new voice in a crowded ethical sector. Specialist sustainable fashion outlets and networks welcomed the brand as a practical demonstration of the ideas Minney has long argued for — clothing made to last, close relationships with producers and explicit commitments to organic fibres. GoodOnYou’s industry roundups and Sustainable Fashion Week commentary have noted Minney’s profile and Indilisi’s potential to act as a practical case study during London Textile Month events. Early reactions are positive but cautious: the sector recognises the importance of examples but also knows how hard it is to scale impact beyond small runs. (The Independent)

Case study: makers in Bangladesh and Kenya

Indilisi’s first production partners highlight two important threads: craft skills and social business. In Bangladesh, workshops known to produce organic cotton staples (and which have existing Fair Trade linkages) are delivering small runs of hand-finished shirts and jackets. In Kenya, Indilisi ties into artisan groups that practice beadwork, metal-working and jewellery, helping to preserve craft livelihoods in a market often pushed into tourism-oriented, commodity production. These supplier relationships matter for two reasons: they anchor supply chains geographically and socially, and they make it easier for the brand to tell verifiable provenance stories about who made the product and how — a crucial credential for sustainability-minded consumers. (Indilisi)

What success looks like for Indilisi (and what to watch)

Success for Indilisi may not look like the usual fashion industry yardsticks (quarterly revenue growth or global store footprints). Instead, early signals of success will be:

Durable trade relationships — multi-year contracts with makers that include living wage commitments and skills development.
Traceable materials — transparent reporting of fibre origins and certifications such as organic or regenerative cotton claims.
Replicable models — whether the brand’s small-batch, maker-centred approach can be shared as a playbook for other brands rather than locked into a high-end niche.
Consumer uptake — whether everyday customers will pay a premium (or accept slower replenishment) for garments built to be kept, repaired and loved. (Indilisi)

Market context: can small slow brands scale their impact?

Indilisi’s arrival comes at a contested moment for sustainable fashion. On one hand, mainstream houses and high-street chains increasingly market “sustainable” lines while continuing fast-production economies of scale. On the other hand, consumers — especially younger cohorts — show interest in traceability and repair, but price sensitivity remains a barrier. That creates a gap: craft brands can prove the hypothesis that ethical production is possible, but systemic change requires buyers, policy incentives and mainstream choices to shift together. Indilisi is therefore both a brand and a test case: can a values-led label influence broader supply-chain practices without becoming co-opted by the same scaling pressures that undermined earlier pioneers? (Wikipedia)

Critiques and constraints

No launch is without its constraints. Small labels face margin pressures when using certified organic fibres and paying living wages; consumers have limited willingness to pay large premiums; and the industry’s structural incentives still reward volume. There is also the reputational tightrope: ethical language can be deployed as PR without tough outcomes behind it. Observers will therefore be watching for measurable commitments from Indilisi — published supplier lists, clear certification claims and reporting on incomes for maker communities — rather than just evocative storytelling. The presence of respected advisors and Minney’s profile mitigate risk but do not eliminate the hard business challenges. (pressloft.com)

Why Indilisi matters

Brands come and go, but Indilisi matters for three complementary reasons. First, it reiterates a design ethic — simple, repairable, culturally respectful garments — that counters seasonal churn. Second, it tests business models for post-growth fashion: small batches, direct maker relationships and priced durability. Third, it performs a pedagogical role: Minney’s public profile brings attention to the politics of textile supply chains and offers a live example of alternative practice. If the label can maintain rigorous standards while demonstrating some commercial reach (even in a limited market), its lessons could be disproportionate to its size. (Indilisi)

Looking forward: indicators to follow

In the months ahead, readers and sector watchers should look for:

Indilisi’s supplier transparency (who exactly is making the goods, and under what terms?).
Certification and auditing for organic/regenerative claims.
Pricing and accessibility — are these products genuinely out-of-reach luxury pieces or realistic staples for ethically inclined shoppers?
Repairs, take-back and circular initiatives — whether the brand builds systems that extend garment life.
Events and partnerships — will Indilisi partner with city textile months, craft networks and educational efforts to amplify learnings? (Good On You)

Bottom line: Indilisi is at once familiar and quietly bold. It is familiar because it stands on the shoulders of People Tree’s pioneering Fair Trade practice; it is bold because it stakes a claim for a “post-growth” fashion future where the primary metric is not how many garments are sold but how many livelihoods are dignified, how many fibres are grown regeneratively, and how many garments are kept in wardrobes for years not weeks. Whether Indilisi will scale those ideals beyond a committed niche remains to be seen — but the label gives the industry one more proof point that fashion can be made differently, and that those alternatives deserve real attention. (Indilisi)

Here’s a breakdown of case studies, comments, and examples around Indilisi, the slow-fashion brand started by Safia Minney (People Tree founder), showing what’s working, what people are saying, and concrete instances of how the model is being put into action.

Case Studies

Case Study 1: Indilisi’s Product & Supply Chain Model

What they do: Indilisi uses 100% GOTS-certified organic cotton, hand-woven, hand-embroidered, and hand-tailored in a Fair Trade social enterprise (Swallows) in rural Bangladesh. (Direct Source News)
Supporting partners: The brand works with fair trade groups in Bangladesh and India, plus smallholders growing organic / regenerative cotton in India (specifically via Chetna Organic). (The Independent)
Renewables & environmental tech: Factories producing surplus fabrics use ~70% renewable energy, employ water management policies, and aim at traceability from fibre through to finished garment. (The Independent)
Surplus Fabric Line: In addition to ready-to-wear, Indilisi offers surplus (deadstock) fabrics to designers, makers, and brands. These fabrics are certified organic and Fair Trade, sourced primarily from India, and imported by sea freight where possible. (Sustainable Fashion Week)

What this case shows: The model seeks to embed sustainability and ethics throughout the chain: from fibre source, through artisans, to optional surplus resource sharing. It’s not just about making nice clothes; it’s about building a system that tries to reduce waste, ensure fair pay, and preserve craft.

Case Study 2: Design & Product Examples

Timeless basics, artisan touches: The first Indilisi collection includes garments such as oversized shirts, chore coats, cropped jackets with balloon sleeves, wide-leg trousers (“Platzo Pants”), summer dresses. These are meant to be “simple, practical pieces full of character” rather than trend-driven. (becausemagazine.com)
Jewellery & accessories: Handcrafted jewellery is part of the assortment, made by Fair Trade artisans. This widens the product offering and allows smaller purchases which still support the ethos. (Indilisi)
Pricing examples: The Press Loft launch shows the “Boxy Jacket — Navy — Hand Embroidered Pocket Detail” priced at £120. Also smaller items like scarves are priced more accessibly (e.g. £25). (pressloft.com)

Case Study 3: Transparency, Traceability & Impact

Traceable supply chain: Indilisi emphasizes traceability, including reporting on where materials come from, the process of hand-weaving / embroidery, and linking with smallholding organic farms. (Indilisi)
Minimising waste: Use of surplus fabrics / deadstock; designing to minimize offcuts; small batch production to avoid over-stock; attention to reducing energy and water in manufacture. (Indilisi)
Community and artisan relationships: Indilisi works with social enterprises and artisans in Bangladesh, India and Kenya, many of whom have pre-existing relationships with Minney / People Tree or Fair Trade networks. The brand messaging emphasises centring women, heritage crafts, and ensuring fair economics for makers. (The Independent)

Comments & Opinions

These are what Safia Minney, collaborators, media, and commentators are saying — both praise and critique, signals of promise and challenges.

Comment / Quotation	Source / Speaker	Key Insight
“By Indilisi, we return to the roots, putting women, heritage textiles, and natural farming on the heart of our work.”	Safia Minney, quoted in launch announcement. (Direct Source News)	Emphasis is on heritage, craft, and social justice. It’s not just about environment but who makes the garments, and under what conditions.
“Indilisi champions slow fashion as part of a Just Transition for the textile and fashion sectors.”	Media (Ethical Fashion News). (myfashionconnectglobal.blogspot.com)	Positions the brand within the broader political and ecological shift needed: not incremental improvements but systemic change.
“One of the key inspirations behind the collection was the idea of creating timeless, practical pieces full of character … It was about evolving simple shapes to share and create pieces that feel lived-in, creative, and truly have purpose.”	Shayla Sakora (designer collaborator). (The Independent)	Suggests that aesthetics (shape, character) together with purpose shape the design process; pieces are meant to be loved and used, not stored.
“It is incredibly difficult to run a fair trade business … prices have just been falling ever since … making a product in real materials in real fabrics, organic fabrics, handcrafting them and paying people a fair wage.”	Safia Minney, reflecting on the challenges. (The Independent)	Transparent admission: ethical, slow fashion has real constraints — cost, competition, consumer expectations, scale.

Examples in Practice

Here are concrete examples from Indilisi to illustrate how the theory is in action.

Boxy Jacket — Navy — Hand Embroidered Pocket Detail: A garment priced ~£120. Made in organic cotton, with hand-embroidered detail. Demonstrates artisan detail at a price point that tries to balance wage, materials, and market. (pressloft.com)
Artist Jacket & Platzo Trousers: Seen in media coverage, these pieces embody the aesthetic of simplicity plus character. The Palzo trousers are wide-leg, relaxed but with tailored touches. (myfashionconnectglobal.blogspot.com)
Surplus Fabric Rolls / Collections for Makers: The FC Designer Collective in London stocks sustainable fabric rolls (denim, poplin, seersucker etc.) supplied by Indilisi. Designers and makers can use these fabrics to create items of their own, increasing both reach of sustainable materials and reducing waste. (Fashion Capital)
Certifications & Renewable Energy in Factories: The brand reports that many of the factories that produce their surplus fabrics or do weaving and finishing are using ~70% renewable energy, following water-management best practices. Also, the cotton is GOTS certified and some farms use regenerative practices. (The Independent)

Comparative & Market Context Examples

To understand how Indilisi is positioned, here are examples / comparisons in the broader ethical / slow fashion landscape:

Other brands that emphasize timeless staples over trend cycles. Indilisi’s basics (shirts, chore coats, wide trousers) follow a similar aesthetic strategy to other slow fashion labels: durability, versatility, classic cuts. (becausemagazine.com)
Surplus / deadstock fabric usage is increasingly popular in ethical fashion; Indilisi’s surplus fabric line is comparable with others who offer fabric swatches, maker tools, or small-scale supply to other designers. It helps relieve some supply chain pressure and gives smaller creators access to better materials.
The “just transition” framing (ensuring that environmental measures also support livelihood, fairness, regeneration) is part of the rising trend among ethically oriented fashion brands. Indilisi is quite explicit in adopting that framing. This puts it closer to activist-led models rather than purely commercial ones.

Challenges & Watchpoints

While positive, there are a number of practical challenges that emerge from the case studies and commentary.

Cost vs consumer expectations: Organic fibres, fair wages, handcraft increase cost. Some consumers may balk at higher prices, or expect fast fashion-level pricing or rapid trend turnarounds. Indilisi’s pricing (e.g. £120 for a jacket) may be seen as premium by some.
Scale & supply demand: Small batch production and artisan processes don’t scale easily. As demand grows, maintaining quality, fairness, traceability gets harder.
Visibility / market reach: Ethical / slow fashion often starts in niche / specialist channels. To influence broader fashion norms, brands need visibility and distribution. Indilisi’s online direct model, surplus fabrics in designer supply shops help, but widespread adoption will require more.
Consumer behaviour: Encouraging people to buy less, buy better, keep longer, repair is non-trivial. Most buying behaviour is shaped by price, trends, convenience. Indilisi is challenging those norms, but the path is steep.
Transparency & verification: Some consumers or media will want third-party verification of claims (e.g. regenerative farming, living wages, carbon/water impact). Indilisi already has some certifications (GOTS, Fair Trade, etc.), but ongoing transparency will be essential to avoid accusations of “greenwashing.”

Why Indilisi’s Approach Matters — Lessons from the Examples

From these cases and examples, we can draw lessons of what makes a slow-fashion / ethical label more credible, resilient and potentially impactful. Indilisi points toward several key strategies:

Deep supply-chain integration: Having long-term and known partners (e.g. fair trade social enterprises, smallholders) lets ethical brands better manage quality, standards, cost, and impact. Indilisi is leveraging Minney’s long history and networks.
Dual offering: Not just finished garments, but surplus fabrics, supplying makers/designers. This widens impact, helps reduce waste, allows more people to participate in sustainable making.
Craft & identity-based design: Using heritage techniques (hand-woven, hand-embroidered), putting artisans and women center, and emphasizing timeless design helps differentiate ethically, and gives authenticity.
Transparency & measurable claims: Certifications (GOTS, Fair Trade), renewable energy usage, traceability (including QR codes per product), surplus / waste metrics, etc., build trust.
Messaging that frames change systemically: Using terms like “just transition”, “post-growth”, talking about what luxury really is, helps situate the brand not just as another fashion label but part of a broader movement.