Kojima, a quaint town nestled in the southwestern seaside Okayama Prefecture of Japan, is often heralded as a mecca for denim enthusiasts, particularly for those who appreciate the craftsmanship behind high-quality jeans. The town’s main thoroughfare, aptly named Jeans Street, is adorned with real pairs of jeans flapping like flags overhead, symbolizing its deep-rooted connection to this iconic fabric. Here, the spirit of denim is omnipresent, and even the soda vending machines at the train station are emblazoned with images of jeans, signaling that you’ve entered a region where denim is more than just clothing; it’s a cultural hallmark. The roads themselves are painted blue, reflecting the color of denim, with pink and white lines marking the edges—a nod to the seams of the renowned Kojima jeans.
Kojima boasts around 40 jeans manufacturers and stores, including denim-themed cafes, and attracts about 100,000 visitors annually, according to the Japan National Tourism Organization. This influx of visitors underscores the town’s unique status as a destination for denim lovers from all corners of the globe, all drawn by the promise of experiencing the art of Japanese jean-making first-hand. Japanese jeans, while constituting a small segment of the global jeans market, have carved out a niche due to their exceptional craftsmanship and attention to detail. Brands like Big John, which originated in the 1940s, have gained international acclaim and now supply well-known fashion houses, including Gucci.
Emma McClendon, an assistant professor of fashion studies at St. John’s University in New York, offers insight into this phenomenon, noting that the Japanese approach to denim is characterized by a connoisseurship and collecting mindset, in stark contrast to the mass marketing strategies typically employed elsewhere. This nuanced perspective encourages a deeper appreciation for the art of denim-making, where the focus is not merely on selling a product but on fostering a genuine connection between the consumer and the craftsmanship behind each pair of jeans.
Walking through Kojima, one might be surprised to find that the atmosphere is far from the glamorous sheen of a bustling fashion hub. Jeans Street is quaint, unassuming, and refreshingly uncrowded. Each company in the region tends to be relatively small, employing around 100 individuals. This intimate setting fosters a culture of pride in “monozukuri,” a Japanese term that translates to “making things.” It embodies a philosophy centered around meticulous craftsmanship, laborious attention to detail, and a deep-seated respect for the art of production. This ethos extends across various sectors in Japan, from large automotive manufacturers to local artisanal producers, including the small tofu shop down the street.
Yoshiharu Okamoto, a dyeing craftsman at Momotaro Jeans, illustrates this dedication to craftsmanship through his own experiences. His hands, stained blue from countless hours spent dipping Zimbabwean cotton threads into large vats of indigo dye, reflect his lifelong commitment to his craft. For Okamoto, working with indigo is not just a job; it’s a vocation he approaches with reverence. He describes the dyeing process as akin to caring for a living organism, requiring daily checks and adjustments to ensure the dye is in the optimal condition. “It’s not that easy to get this special color,” he explains, underscoring the intricate balance required to achieve the distinctive hue that has come to be known as “Japan blue” or “tokuno blue,” which means “especially concentrated blue.” This deep indigo color, unique to Japanese denim, has become a hallmark of quality that consumers recognize and appreciate.
However, this exceptional craftsmanship comes at a price. Jeans produced in Kojima are not what one might call affordable, with prices ranging from approximately 33,000 yen ($230) for entry-level offerings to upwards of 200,000 yen ($1,400) for pieces crafted by master artisans. This pricing structure is reflective of the quality and durability inherent in Japanese jeans, which are often made from “raw denim”—a fabric that not only ages beautifully but also stands the test of time. Thomas Stege Bojer, the founder of Denimhunters, an online platform dedicated to denim culture, echoes the sentiment that the rise of “slow clothing” movements—an antidote to the fast fashion industry—has spurred a growing appreciation for well-made garments. He argues that the industry has become inundated with an excess of clothing, advocating for a shift toward slower, more mindful consumption.
McClendon also emphasizes this shift, noting that the Japanese denim industry is redefining the conversation around jeans to focus on heritage, craftsmanship, and the historical narratives behind the garments. Brands like Momotaro Jeans, which was launched in 2006 under the Japan Blue Co. banner, exemplify this trend by offering a lifetime warranty on their products. This policy allows customers to repair any tears or damages within reason at no extra cost, reinforcing the commitment to quality and longevity. Japan Blue Co. reported annual sales of approximately 1.6 billion yen ($11 million) in its latest fiscal year, with around 40% of sales generated from international markets, indicating a robust global demand for these high-quality jeans.
The industrial history of Kojima plays a significant role in its denim manufacturing prowess. The region is steeped in a legacy of sewing heavy fabrics, including military garments and traditional obi sashes for kimonos, alongside its rich practices in cotton cultivation and indigo dyeing. This historical context contributes to the community’s expertise, allowing craftsmen like Okamoto, loom specialist Shigeru Uchida, and seamstress Naomi Takebayashi to hone their skills in a way that is deeply rooted in tradition. They work diligently to pass these skills on to the next generation, emphasizing the importance of maintaining a special bond with their machines. The vintage Toyoda power looms they use, now hard to come by and requiring scarce spare parts, are not just tools of production; they are treasured companions in the art of denim making.
Masataka Suzuki, the president and chief operating officer of Japan Blue, asserts that this industrial heritage is a source of strength for the region. The jeans produced in Kojima are not mere commodities; they are artifacts that evolve over time, fading and creasing in response to the wearer’s unique experiences and lifestyle. This philosophy resonates with Suzuki’s vision of creating products that serve as lasting testaments to individuals’ lives, encapsulating the stories and memories of those who wear them. Each pair of jeans carries not only the imprint of the maker’s craftsmanship but also the personal narrative of the wearer, which contributes to the allure and value of Kojima denim.
In a world increasingly dominated by fast fashion and disposable garments, the community of Kojima stands as a bastion of craftsmanship and heritage. It invites visitors and consumers alike to engage with the story behind the clothing they wear, encouraging a deeper understanding of the artistry involved in creating each pair of jeans. As enthusiasts flock to this unique town, they are not merely shopping for denim; they are participating in a cultural experience that celebrates the beauty of quality craftsmanship, the art of making things, and the stories that are woven into the fabric of everyday life.